If the water is rising in the bowl, don’t flush again. That second flush is often what causes bathroom floods. Here’s what to do right now:
Once the water has stopped rising, you have time to work through the fix without pressure.
Not every slow flush is a full clog. Here are the signs that something is actually blocking the drain:
If water is backing up in multiple fixtures at once, that usually means the main sewer line is blocked, not just the toilet. A plunger won’t fix that. Call Staggs Plumbing at 682-284-0966 for a drain inspection before the problem gets worse.
A toilet plunger is usually all you need. They cost less than $10 at any hardware store. Make sure you have a flange plunger (the kind with a soft rubber extension below the cup). Flat cup plungers are for sinks and won’t seal properly over a toilet drain.
Step by Step:
Most simple clogs (toilet paper, waste buildup) will clear with this method on the first or second attempt.
Important: If you can see a hard object (a toy, toothbrush, bottle cap) lodged in the drain, do not plunge. Plunging pushes it deeper into the trap or drain line where it becomes much harder to retrieve. Fish it out by hand or with a wire hanger instead.
If you don’t have a plunger and the hardware store is closed, here are some methods that can work on minor clogs. These are best for soft blockages (too much paper, waste). They won’t clear hard objects like toys or thick wipe buildups.
Squirt a generous amount of liquid dish soap into the bowl. Then pour in a bucket of hot (not boiling) water from about waist height. The soap lubricates the blockage and the weight of the water pushes it through. Wait 10 to 15 minutes, then flush.
Do not use boiling water. It can crack the porcelain.
Pour about one cup of baking soda into the bowl, followed by two cups of white vinegar. It will fizz. Let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes, then follow with a bucket of hot water. This can break up organic blockages, but it’s slower and less reliable than a plunger.
Untwist a wire coat hanger and straighten it out, leaving a small hook at one end. Wrap the hook end with a rag or tape to avoid scratching the porcelain. Feed it into the drain and gently work it around to break up or hook the clog. This is basically a makeshift auger and works surprisingly well on soft blockages close to the drain opening.
If you have a wet/dry shop vac in the garage, set it to liquid mode and use it to suck the clog out. Place the hose directly over the drain opening and create a tight seal. The suction can pull out blockages that plunging can’t budge. Never use a regular household vacuum for this. Only a wet/dry shop vac is designed to handle liquids.
These methods have a lower success rate than a plunger. They work best on partial clogs where water is still draining slowly. If the bowl is completely backed up and nothing is moving, save yourself the time and get a plunger or an auger.
If you’re on a septic system: The baking soda and vinegar method is septic-safe. Chemical drain openers are not. Harsh chemicals kill the beneficial bacteria in your septic tank that break down waste.
If plunging hasn’t cleared it after 10 to 15 solid attempts, the blockage is probably deeper in the trap or drain line. This is where a toilet auger (also called a closet auger) comes in.
A toilet auger has a flexible cable inside a protective tube that feeds into the drain without scratching the porcelain. You can rent one from most hardware stores or buy one for $20 to $40.
If the auger doesn’t reach the blockage, or you hit resistance far down the line, the problem is likely past the toilet’s trap and into the drain or sewer pipe. This is the point to stop the DIY and call a licensed plumber. Forcing a longer snake or power auger without experience can damage pipes. Call Staggs Plumbing at 682-284-0966 for a professional assessment.
If you’re dealing with repeat clogs, there’s usually a reason beyond “too much paper.” Here are the most common causes:
The only things that should go into your toilet are human waste and toilet paper. Everything else belongs in the trash. Here’s the most common list of items that cause clogs:
If you have kids, keep the toilet lid closed and consider a child lock. Curious kids flushing toys is one of the most common calls we get.
Most chemical drain cleaners (like Drano, Liquid-Plumr, and similar products) are not recommended for toilets. Here’s why:
Stick with a plunger, hot water and dish soap, or an auger. If those don’t work, a plumber will fix it faster and safer than any chemical product.
Enzyme-based drain cleaners (like Green Gobbler or RID-X) are a safer alternative. They use natural bacteria to eat away organic buildup over time. They won’t clear an active clog the way a plunger will, but they’re good for monthly maintenance to keep drain lines flowing. They’re also septic-safe, which matters if you’re on a septic system.
Sometimes what looks like a clog is actually a mechanical problem inside the tank. If the toilet flushes weakly every time (not just occasionally), try these checks before reaching for the plunger:
Pour a full bucket of water rapidly into the bowl. If the water flushes down with force, the drain is clear. The problem is in the tank (the flapper, chain, or fill valve), not the drain. If the bucket flush is also slow, you have a real blockage.
Lift the tank lid and look at the water line. It should be about an inch below the top of the overflow tube. If the water level is low, the toilet doesn’t have enough volume to create a strong flush. Adjust the fill valve or float to raise the water level to the correct mark.
Look under the rim of the bowl. You’ll see small holes (rim jets) where water flows during a flush. Over time, mineral deposits from hard water build up in these holes and restrict flow. In North Texas, where water is typically 18+ grains per gallon hard, this happens faster than in most areas. Use a small wire, stiff brush, or a bent paper clip to clear each hole. You can also pour white vinegar under the rim and let it soak for a few hours to dissolve the buildup.
Most single-event toilet clogs are an easy DIY fix. But some situations need professional equipment and experience. Call a plumber if:
Knowing what happens during a service call can take the stress out of calling. Here’s how Staggs Plumbing handles a typical clogged toilet visit:
Most clogged toilet service calls take 30 minutes to an hour. If the problem turns out to be a main line blockage, we’ll explain the additional work and cost before proceeding.
Ready to get it fixed? Call Staggs Plumbing at 682-284-0966 or contact us online. We offer same-day appointments and 24/7 emergency service throughout the Dallas-Fort Worth area.
| Method | Estimated Cost | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Plunger (DIY) | $5 to $10 (one-time purchase) | Simple clogs, paper or waste buildup |
| Toilet Auger (DIY) | $20 to $40 (purchase) or $10 to $15 (rental) | Clogs the plunger can’t reach |
| Plumber Service Call | $125 to $300 | Failed DIY attempts, recurring clogs, hard objects |
| Sewer Camera Inspection | $150 to $400 | Repeat blockages, multiple fixture backups |
| Hydro Jetting | $350 to $600 | Heavy buildup, grease, or root intrusion in drain lines |
These are typical ballpark ranges for the DFW area. Actual costs vary depending on the city, time of day, after-hours/emergency scheduling, and access to the problem.
Staggs Plumbing Family Plan members get the diagnostic fee waived and 10% off repairs.
We’ve been helping homeowners in Plano, Rockwall, and the surrounding DFW communities with plumbing problems for over 35 years. Texas Master Plumber License #M-17697, insured, A+ rated with the BBB, and backed by over 530 verified reviews across Google, Yelp, Facebook, and Angi.
If you’ve tried the DIY steps on this page and the clog won’t budge, or if you’re tired of dealing with a toilet that clogs every week, we can fix it. Same-day appointments available. 24/7 emergency line.
Call 682-284-0966 or contact us online to schedule service. We serve Plano, Dallas, Rockwall, Allen, Frisco, McKinney, Richardson, and all cities within about a 30-mile radius.